Posted by: radiovenice | November 26, 2009

C-c-c-changes

David Bowie album cover
Image via Wikipedia

After two-plus years in Berlin, I’m moving to Washington, DC. This is a positive life development but has had an adverse effect on my posting, which was never frequent to begin with. I may also need to change the subtitle of this blog.

Anyway, stay tuned. For better or worse, you’ll soon be hearing a lot more of me if you live in the States and listen to too much public radio. If that doesn’t apply to you, my greatest hits will continue to be available on this site.

Now, an homage to another ex-Berliner…

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Posted by: radiovenice | November 9, 2009

A million stories of November 9th

柏林墙 - The Berlin Wall - Berliner Mauer
Image by siyublog via Flickr

November 9th is a complicated day in German history. In addition to marking the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, it was also the day in 1938 when Nazi-led mobs attacked synagogues, Jewish businesses and Jews on the streets of Germany. In 1918, it was the day the Weimar Republic was founded and in 1848, it was the day the last of the German revolutionaries of the 1848 revolutions was executed, marking an end to Germans’ first attempts at creating a constitutional government. That’s German history for you, the highs are stratospheric, the lows hellish.

While there is plenty of coverage of the day, including some of my own, I’d like to share one story, told to me by a neighbor.

Read More…

Posted by: radiovenice | October 28, 2009

Guido got rolled

BERLIN - OCTOBER 14:  German Chancellor and Ch...
“Listen here Guido, it’s ‘abroad’ not ‘outland,’ can you remember that?” Image by Getty Images via Daylife

Angela Merkel officially got sworn in today for a second term as Chancellor. Instead of the hapless Frank Walter Steinmeier of the Social Democrats at her side as Foreign Minister and Vice-Chancellor (as is traditional for the smaller coalition partner), she now has Free Democrat Guido Westerwelle (or, WesterWave as fans of his English skills would like him to be known as).

Yay Guido, right? I don’t think so. Read More…

Posted by: radiovenice | October 8, 2009

East Germany lives on…

A store in Berlin that only sells products made in what was East Germany. (Photo: Brett Neely, 2009)

A store in Berlin that only sells products made in what was East Germany. (Photo: Brett Neely, 2009)

It’s anniversary time in Germany. Twenty years ago, the Socialist Unity Party lost its hold on power as thousands of East Germans took to the streets in peaceful protests. It was a hopeful time, and certainly the most peaceful revolution German history. But it wasn’t all sunshine and light after thousands of companies were closed and millions thrown out of work afterward.

My most recent story for Marketplace is about the companies that survived what Germans call Die Wende, the turning point. I had much, much more for the piece but when you’re working with three minutes, a lot gets left on the cutting room floor.

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Posted by: radiovenice | September 29, 2009

Berlin’s Buses and Brothels, United

A Berlin bus advertising one of the city's biggest brothels (Photo: Brett Neely, 2009)

A Berlin bus advertising one of the city's biggest brothels (Photo: Brett Neely, 2009)

Berlin is, and has been for a long time, broke. The city has lots of debt, it’s one of Germany’s least productive cities in terms of economic output, the number of citizens receiving social services is high. Etc. Sort of like DC, only much more livable and less dysfunctional.

You wouldn’t pull this revenue-generating measure off in DC though. The city’s transit agency has buses advertising for one of the city’s biggest brothels. Presumably that’s a lucrative ad contract to land.

The Artemis Web site even has a charmingly-written English section: “Artemis is a perfectly styled club, one of the most beautiful and largest wellness brothel establishments in Germany.”

Makes me think they’re marketing themselves to yoga-loving sex tourists.

Of course, Berlin lets anyone advertise on their buses. The southern state of Baden-Wuerttemberg has cheeky ads on Berlin buses that say, “It’s nice here, but have you been to Baden-Wuerttemberg?” It’s hard for me to imagine Georgia or Arizona taking out that ad on a DC city bus.

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Posted by: radiovenice | September 28, 2009

The Rise of the Yuppie Parties

die yuppie scum

I haven't seen this one around Berlin, but I've seen plenty like it. Image by skep via Flickr

So Germany had an election. You might have heard. The words “boring” and “uninspiring” were overused. The Social Democrats got thrashed, there’s four more years of Angie and Germany’s new foreign minister is a free-marketeer named Guido. What was missing from the analysis was the observation that parties catering to affluent, well-educated, socially-liberal voters collared nearly 30 percent of the vote. The yuppie block in German politics has gotten some electoral clout. Where can this possibly lead? State-subsidized lattes?

Read More…

Posted by: radiovenice | September 22, 2009

Ahead of the curve on Opel

Opel P4 Limousine
Opel P4 Limousine, Image via Wikipedia

For much of the past year, I’ve been covering the soap opera that is GM‘s troubled European unit, Opel for pretty much every outlet I’ve worked for, including Marketplace, NPR and Deutsche Welle. Now that GM has agreed to sell a controlling stake to Magna, it looks like everything I reported would be a problem with the deal has come true.

The Antwerp factory I visited appears to be on the chopping block, despite being one of Opel’s most efficient production locations according to union leaders. In the zero-sum terms of today’s car business, axing Antwerp means saving German factories (and jobs in a German election season). Indeed, just 4,000 jobs will probably be cut in Germany, less than expected earlier this summer.

Oh right, the German government is underwriting the Magna deal and got testy about funding other bidders when it became clear that they would lay off more German workers.

Belgium, along with Spain and the UK, which all have Opel factories likely to be closed or heavily cut, are…upset. And they’re going to the European Commission and trying to sink the deal now that it’s official and the layoff negotiations are underway.

As for the workers and retirees I spoke to in Antwerp over the summer, they were sanguine then about what could happen but I suspect they’re worried now. My inbox has been getting multiple press releases a day about demonstrations and protests. Ultimately though, the only hope those workers have is if the EU puts the screws on Germany in the next few months. Otherwise, at least they have a European-style safety net to fall back on rather than wind up in the European equivalent of Detroit.

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Posted by: radiovenice | September 20, 2009

Bosnian Scabs

I recently returned from two weeks of travel through the former Yugoslavia. We started in Slovenia and ended in Montenegro via Sarajevo and Mostar in Bosnia. In Croatia, at least along the Dalmatian coast where we were, it was hard to tell there had been a war. If there were ever a place that screamed, “we’re ready to join the EU,” it’s Croatia. The infrastructure was good and being improved. Millions of happy tourists swim in the beautiful, clear waters of the Adriatic and munch on pizza at nice restaurants.

Then we crossed the border into Bosnia.

First off, though we were well into Bosnia, we noticed the Croatian flag flying everywhere, a sign that ethnic loyalties trump national ones. We didn’t make it to the Serbian regions but I can only imagine that there’s barely a sign that the Bosnian state even exists there.

Shelled-out building in Mostar, Bosnia-Hercegovina. (Photo: Brett Neely, 2009)

Shelled-out building in Mostar, Bosnia-Hercegovina. (Photo: Brett Neely, 2009)

Then you notice the war damage, visible nowhere else we visited in the Balkans. By war damage, I mean bullet holes in occupied buildings and totally shelled out buildings in the middle of otherwise-busy cities.

For a little context, the Dayton Peace Agreement, which ended the war, was signed in late 1995 (almost 14 years ago if you need to count).

Perhaps the most understandable, but still disturbing, sign that things were not well, were the road signs themselves. As a multi-ethnic country, Bosnia has pledged to respect the language rights of Serbs (who use the Cyrillic alphabet) and non-Serbs (who use Latin script). Almost every road sign we saw had the Cyrillic script spray-painted out.

Reconciliation is clearly another generation or two away.

Road sign in Bosnia with the Cyrillic script vandalized. (Photo: Brett Neely, 2009)

Road sign in Bosnia with the Cyrillic script vandalized. (Photo: Brett Neely, 2009)

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Posted by: radiovenice | September 2, 2009

Radio silence

…I´m off the grid through the middle of the month, visiting the Balkans. If time and connectivity permit, I´ll try to update but posting frequency is likely to be limited.

Posted by: radiovenice | August 27, 2009

Sommerloch-age

Sommerloch means “summer hole” in German, aka there’s no news. There actually is news, but I’m tired and for some reason have been going through old photos. Here’s a tiny sample of the amazing Neely scrapbook:

"Jesus is the only solution," sign from a town we visited in Guatamala a few years ago. (Photo: Brett Neely, 2007)

"Jesus is the only solution," sign from a town we visited in Guatamala a few years ago. (Photo: Brett Neely, 2007)

Ever wonder where storks (and by extension, babies) come from? Latvia. Every post in the country seemed to have a stork nest atop it. (Photo: Brett Neely, 2009)

Ever wonder where storks (and by extension, babies) come from? Latvia. Every post in the country seemed to have a stork nest atop it. (Photo: Brett Neely, 2009)

Folk dancing is best viewed from a high place. The pictures are better. Folk dancers in Latvia. (Photo: Brett Neely, 2009)

Folk dancing is best viewed from a high place. The pictures are better. Folk dancers in Latvia. (Photo: Brett Neely, 2009)

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